Weekend Project: V-Brake Conversion

When you ride disc brakes exclusively for five months, returning to cantilever brakes can be a real eye opener.  The difference in power and modulation became immediately apparent to me when I tried slowing my canti-equipped SOMA Saga with hands that had become used to the Avid BB7s on my Salsa Vaya.

Truth be told, I have never been completely enamored of my commuter’s cantilevers.  I’ve experimented with various aftermarket brake pads, straddle cable positions, and cable housing, but the improvements were always minimal.  Since disc brakes were not an option for the Saga, I figured it was time to give v-brakes a try.

Now, this is not the first time I’ve converting one of my bikes over to v-brakes.  In 1996, I made the switch from expensive CNC-machined cantilevers to Shimano’s mass produced v-brakes.  Shimano’s claims of increased power and improved control obvious the first time I rode those new brakes.

Converting the commuter to v-brakes should be a no-brainer, right?  Well, yes and no.  V-brakes require more cable pull than canti’s, which means you generally can’t use just any drop-bar brake lever.  Using shorter, mini v-brake calipers allow the use of STI/Ergo-style levers, but the mini-v’s often lack the clearance for fat tires and full-sized fenders (which is exactly how my commuter is equipped).  I was willing to bite the bullet and switch to dedicated linear-pull levers, but selecting the correct length brake arms left me a bit puzzled.

A bit of googling revealed a thread on Road Bike Review that included measurements for more than a dozen models of v-brakes.  I measured the distance necessary for fender clearance (95mm), and found four compatible models.  Since I wanted to match the rest of the bike’s silver components, I went with the Tektro 930AL.

After I had amassed the necessary bits and pieces, I began the task of removing the current brakes and levers, and installing the new components.  Once again, I was pleasantly reminded of just how easy installation and setup was with v-brakes (wrapping the bars took longer than adjusting the brakes).

Was the conversion worth it?  Yes.  The v-brakes have more power, better modulation, and require a lighter touch than the cantilevers they replaced (and that’s with the v’s stock pads).  After only a few short rides, it’s obvious why so many cyclocross bikes now come with mini-v’s instead of cantilevers (my commute includes 5-6 miles of dirt trails).  The combination of direct-pull levers and the 95mm arms allows for plenty of rim clearance, and the brakes can be easily released for wheel removal.

Tektro 930AL v-brakes

Since modern drop-bar levers don’t have built-in cable adjusters, you need to run an inline adjuster (or swap the stock noodle for one with an adjuster).  Also, don’t skimp when it comes cable housing.  Reinforced housing such as Jagwire’s Ripcord will improve braking feel at the lever (which is true for any style brake).  V-brakes can produce lots of leverage, and that leverage may “overpower” thin-walled or small diameter forks or seat stays.  If you’re considering converting such a frame/fork to v-brakes, you may want to stick with cantilevers, or at least add a booster plate to reduce flex.

9 thoughts on “Weekend Project: V-Brake Conversion

  1. Thanks for this. It has been helpful to me in investigating my own conversion on the Surly LHT from cantilever brakes to v-brakes.

  2. Why would you WANT V-brakes? Every time I have used them, they go out of adjustment and rub against the rim. I have even taken them to two different shops and they tell me I need new ones all together. And I have never found a single webpage that wants to convert TO cantilevers. I don’t understand how anyone can like adjusting and buying new brakes ever couple months or weeks. I’m looking forward to a reply.

    1. As for wanting v-brakes, I find that they offer more stopping power than cantilevers. I’ve experimented with many different types of cantilever (wide-profile, mid-profile, etc), and none of them offered the power of even the cheapest v-brakes.

      While v-brakes are simple to set up (especially compared to cantilevers), you still need to make sure that both arms have enough spring tension to keep them from dragging, etc. On cheaper brakes, the spring retainers often have “slop,” which means the spring can move enough to undo any previous (tension) adjustment. Also, cable housing that is too long or too short will negatively affect the ability to center the brake. About the only time I need to adjust any brake is if the pads have worn sufficiently.

    2. Andy Wilkinson runs them on his Dolan, because they work well for the wariety of racings trials in which he competes. The popular internet forum notion of berating v brakes is just that – a popular notion. The situation suffers from the same extrapolation of anecdote that perpetuates sterotyping. Set up well, v brakes are an excellent option, with the operative word there being “option.”

  3. Please Help! I am in the process of Adding V-brakes to my 4 inch Fat Tire Bike, but because the tires rise more than your average 2-3″ tires, I was wondering if you think the V-brake arms that you use, will clear the top of the Tire (The cable that crosses the top)?? It looks like there’s plenty of room for you to add a mud guard underneath it. So I am assuming it will be enough clearance for this tire, but I’d like to know your insight, if you think it will…
    Thanks for a response.


  4. Thanks for this piece of writing. I found it informative. Those experiments are costly with all those parts you need to get to test them yourself.

    I did a conversion from Tektros CR720 cantis to Tektro RX6 vbrakes …but only for the rear wheel.

    The problem with cantis I had was resulting from the mechanical advantage and cable flex.

    As long as I have short cable and very little housing as in the front brake – cantis prevail because of the modulation they offer. They are also pretty responsive and brake firmly. This helps avoiding over the bars.

    As for the rear, I had to replace the cantis because cable and housing flex resulted in very poor braking power.

    It’s especially important for the kind of riding I do, which is a lot of forest tracks on the flat with sudden drops, roots and rocks in the ground. It’s not yet MTB riding but it’s more than muddy/grassy CX. Sometimes I go really fast, road style, sometimes I go technical on obstacles.

    The only problem I have now is with my SRAM Rival road levers which do not have enough cable pull for proper adjustment of the mini-vbrakes. I managed to set it up, but the clearance is very small. With 40mm tire I run there is little risk of the rim going out of true, but still, there is little space for any modulation.

    I’m happy, though 🙂



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